User:JoeBrock997
From The Abyss Wiki
Acrylic or polycarbonate dome skylights come is several sizes today. The traditional ones, however, are square to rectangular in shape, and run about 5" in height. Their width and length could be anywhere from 12" to 36", and so are 1/8" thick. These domes may be mounted onto wooden curbs (2x2" to 2x6"), around that your roof shingles are caulked or thin-metal flashed to avoid any rain leakage around them. These domes can also be surface mounted directly on the tar paper and wooden sheeting directly under the shingles. In the latter case, the dome's surrounding shingles can be directly laid over its flat outside flanges similar for the way the shingles are normally laid in the flat metal of roof vents, furnace stacks, sewer vents and so forth. This installation minimizes the dome's height. Problem. Either way, or no matter the way the domes are mounted, they are able to and can produce unwanted condensation and similar leaks even if they come with an inner plastic shield within them. These domes may also be vulnerable to being cracked from large hail, fallen tree branches, earthquakes, or careless roofers. When these events happen, the skylights will leak rain water at the same time along with forming moisture. Solution. Build and use a shallow-box-like 5-1/2"-high hard transparent cover over the dome for the roof. This cover will act like a storm window does by utilizing the brunt of temperature change as well as the formation on most condensation. For this article, a 20" square dome (which features a 1" flange on them of the 18"-square dome itself), 5" high, and surface mounted directly on the roof sheeting will probably be used because the example to be covered while using box-like storm cover. Similar covers might be built proportionally for other dome sizes. Materials and tools (total cost for parts: $50-90, depending on the availability with the acrylic sheet). One 2x6x96" pressure-treated board ($5) One 22x22" sheet of heavy 0.22" thick acrylic plexiglass ($25-60, depending for the cut sizes available in the outlet). In the wedding the piece have to be cut coming from a larger sheet, leave the protective films unpeeled on sides with the sheet before sawing is done. Use a pointy fine-tooth saw blade. Otherwise, allow outlet cut it to size for you. Twelve #12x3" Philips screws 20 to 30 - #8x1" Philips drywall screws (wide head) One small tube clear silicone caulk ($4) Two tubes silicone window/door caulk similar colored on the roof shingles ($8) Four perpendicularly flat 2-1/2" L-shaped brackets ($5) Eight #10x1" wood screws (for attaching the L-brackets on the cover frame) Eight #10x1-1/2 to 2" wood screws (for attaching the frame's L-brackets to the roof over the shingles) One quart oil-base water-proof paint similar in color for the roof shingles ($4) Tools: electric circular saw, electric drill, bits, Philips screwdriver, caulking gun, putty knife, rat-tail file, paintbrush Cover construction. 1. Cut the 2x6" board into four square-cornered pieces: 2 22"-long ones and two 19"-long ones. 2. Assemble the 22" square box-like frame by sealing/securing the four corners with the silicone window/door water-proofing caulk and 3" screws. 3. On what will be the lower-end with the bottom side, make use of the file to create no less than three half-moon groves for moisture drainage. 4. Paint both inside and outside in the wooden frame. Let dry. 5. Position the acrylic plexiglass flush in the frame. 6. Mark around the plexiglass the location where the screw holes will go, about 5" apart round the top from the frame. 7. At each mark, drill a hole with the plexiglass (only) wider compared to the drywall screw. 8. Then, by utilizing a narrow bit, drill holes 1/2" deep in the wood frame dead-center through the plexiglass holes. 9. Remove the plexiglass through the frame, noting the way it fits on the frame. 10. Brush away any plastic or wood shavings from your frame and plexiglass. 11. With the silicone caulk, put in a narrow bead lengthwise on both sides in the frame's drill holes throughout it. 12. Carefully replace the plexiglass atop the frame, aligning it to the original drill holes accordingly. 13. Install the screws to medium tightness, so not to crack the plexiglass. The caulk will flatten and spread involving the plexiglass along with the frame, sealing it. 14. Add a minimum of one flat L-shaped bracket to each side in the frame flush to its bottom side with the 1" wood screws. 15. Paint the brackets. Cover installation (the easy way). 1. While using safety precautions, carry the completed cover up towards the roof, assuming the top is a low-pitch and safe just to walk on. 2. Center it over the dome skylight, square to square. 3. Attach the dome for the roof from the shingles with all the 1-1/2 to 2" wood screws, depending on the thickness with the shingles. 4. Seal the underside side with the upper end and each side from the cover with all the silicone window/door caulk. Seal the brackets and screws the identical way. Leave the underside side in the lower end unsealed for drainage. It is often a storm window. 5. If necessary, touch-up the frame and brackets with paint. By installing the cover atop the shingles, the wood sheeting beneath the shingles can also be shielded from any moisture damage. This placement also elevates the top's over the dome for adequate air space. This cover will assume the formation of almost all the condensation that could otherwise occur within the dome, none which will make it through the dome to the house nor under the shingles. It'll also protect the dome from hail, fallen tree branches, along with other damages. To learn much more about skylight types along with their maintenance, see these sites.
